Unlike colored precious stones, judging the quality of pearls isn't so much about "pedigree." Take sapphires, for example! A small Burmese sapphire can be much more expensive than a Madagascar sapphire.
However, the price of a pearl depends on a comprehensive evaluation of its luster, size, shape, and surface smoothness. Everyone knows Australian white pearls are expensive, but their high price isn't due to their origin, but rather their variety.
Generally speaking, Australian white pearls are superior to other pearls in all aspects. However, this doesn't mean that Akoya, Tahitian black pearls, etc., are necessarily inferior to Australian white pearls.
As long as the quality reaches the top of each variety, the price will be high!
Luster
The shinier the pearl, the higher the price.
It's widely believed in the industry that the luster of a pearl is the most important factor affecting its price; the shinier the pearl, the higher the price. However, the luster of a pearl is actually closely related to its nacreous layer.
The main component of the nacreous layer is calcium carbonate, which effectively disperses and reflects light, giving the pearl its unique luster. Pearls with thicker nacreous layers tend to have higher luster and more uniform surface color and texture. These are what's known in the pearl world as "thick-skinned" pearls. They look bright and luxurious, almost shimmering!
Therefore, they tend to be more expensive. Here's a simple way to evaluate them—"look in a mirror!" Observe how clearly the pearl reflects your face. Generally, the clearer the reflection, the better the luster.
Size
The larger the pearl, the higher the price. When buying pearls, you often hear terms like "large" and "small," which refer to the size of the pearl. It's also closely related to the type. For example, Akoya pearls are characterized by their small size and brilliance, while Australian white pearls tend to be larger. They can be larger than many other types of pearls!
Comparing pearls of the same type, larger pearls are generally more expensive. This is because larger pearls mean they have grown for a longer period and have a thicker nacre layer, thus receiving higher evaluations in various aspects.
Shape
The rounder the pearl, the higher the price.
There's an old Chinese saying, "A pearl is round and lustrous," so naturally, the rounder the pearl, the better.
However, recently, two special contenders in the pearl world—Baroque and Keshi—have become exceptionally popular.
Baroque comes from Portuguese and means "not-round pearl." The full, round pearls commonly seen in high-end jewelry are actually carefully selected by hand. Most cultured pearls don't have such a perfect shape. These can be collectively called Baroque pearls!
Baroque comes from Portuguese and means "imperfect pearl." The full, round pearls commonly seen in high-end jewelry are actually carefully selected by hand. Most pearls formed during the cultured pearl process are not perfectly shaped. These can be collectively called baroque pearls! Another type, the Keshi pearl, while also irregularly shaped, is formed for a different reason than baroque pearls.
During the cultivation of saltwater pearls, a very small number of mother-of-pearl oysters will reject the pearl nucleus, expelling it from the oyster and leaving only the nacreous material. Through this process, a rare type of pearl without a nucleus is created.
Lacking a nucleus for support, Keshi pearls are mostly small, irregularly shaped dots, sometimes even forming sheet-like shapes! However, because these pearls are entirely composed of nacreous layers, they are extremely hard and have a long-lasting luster. Keshi pearls are relatively rare and therefore much more expensive than baroque pearls of the same size!
Flaw
The fewer the flaws, the higher the price.
Let's talk about pearl flaws. Everyone's heard the saying, "No story is complete without flaws, and no pearl is without imperfections." Due to its unique formation process, perfectly flawless pearls are almost nonexistent.
However, pearl flaws are generally not noticeable at social distances, so choose the least flawless one within your budget!
Finally, I want to emphasize this: These criteria for judging pearls are not isolated. When selecting pearls, you must consider their luster, placement, shape, and flaws to make a comprehensive judgment.